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"Patrol " in Southern Germany
& Austria
September 2005
A "Trip into
the Tunnels of Time"
(Miguel Gonzales-Hermosilio)
This was a FANTASTIC "Patrol"!
Before beginning this tour however, let's read what some of our travelers had to
say.
Duane Luthe-Rubin (5821-LIFE-1999)and Penny
were on both "Patrols":
"WOW! What a "Patrol"!
It was everything you said it would be and more, it was terrific!!
My comments briefly for now would be - a highpoint of my life due to not only
walking the same path as great German historical leaders, but also walking with
American men of history. You see Harry, 'the Volk' were the real
highpoint for me, just being in the presence of the German veterans was awesome,
recognizing the mindset of the German people and the burden they
carry (especially the later generations) was an education in German tragedy!
I shall never forget the proud but sad expressions at Ulrichsberg. I have
always been proud of my great-uncle who served the Kaiser 1914-1918. The
Sharkhunters Members we met and are in contact with are of great importance to
us - what a wonderful group of people.
You have something to be very proud of, Commander!!"
Dr. Renée von Worde (887-1988) has been on
previous "Patrols" and she writes:
"I have been
reading about the FABULOUS "Patrols" and also the Members' comments.
I know that everyone had the trip of a lifetime. I have fantastic memories
of our trip and I think of how much I am looking forward to being able to
return. With Sharkhunters, one experiences history and creates memories
that last forever. No other tour can even
come close!"
Ed Hargrove (2074-1991:
"I had a really great
time - it was very good as always."
Larry Kagan (5053-C-1996):
"If you can't make history -
live it! Live it by going on a Sharkhunters tour!"
Rich delFavro (1495-LIFE-1990):
"I had a FANTASTIC
time! I best liked Ulrichsbergfest, the dinner and friendship with the
veterans, our dinner at Landskron Castle with the Police Choir and impromptu
trip to Italy. My best memory of the "Patrol" was the Police Choir at
Landskron then sitting with Rudy from that Choir on the bus the next day.
I had a great time from meeting you in the Munich Airport to the last breakfast
goodbye. You did a great job and thanks for having me along."
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We met veterans from great combat
divisions (seen here is Eugen from the Hermann Göring Division), had dinner in a
castle and visited a World War I museum that is known to be one of the finest in
the world.
Andy Byers (6800-2004) had this to say:
"I
best liked being admitted to places where the general public would not
ordinarily be allowed. My best memory was singing patriotic songs with
the veterans and their wives at the Friends of Ulrichsberg; staying at the Hotel zum Türken;
standing on the podium at Zeppelnfeld, dinner at Landskron Castle and being at the site of the
1934 Nürnberg Rally. I had high expectations for this trip -
I can honestly say that they were
all exceeded! I made friends that will be friends forever and really look forward to going
again."
And from Alfred Richert (3744-1994):
"You
amaze me as to how you not only find these Third Reich enclaves that are not
necessarily open to the German public, but you find a
tour guide to explain it all to us. We must keep our time in the Hotel zum Türken. My overall
comments - the surprise and excitement that Harry programmed for us was always exhilarating. One could spend
thousands of Euros in Bavaria and Austria but never experience the depths of its political and military
history that Harry exposed us to."
Our deluxe "Royal Class"
motor coach took us into München in the morning where we met our guide who took
us to the famous buildings in the city including the Party Headquarters of the
Third Reich, past the hotel where Hitler had his special room, by the
Feldherrnhalle and so many more. (the photos will soon tell this story).
For lunch, we ate at the Hofbräu Hof, famous
for...........well, you must know its history. We were welcomed by their
band and they treated us wonderfully and
naturally, everyone had to buy goodies from the gift shop.
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This evening, we enjoyed a great dinner in the beautiful four-centuries-old
Löewenbräukeller
where we were met by our good friend Georg Högel (240-LIFE-1987) and his
wife. Georg (photo below) has been a strong Member of Sharkhunters since 1987 and during
the war, he was radioman on U-30, the first boat into action. He
was later chief radioman on U-110 when the Royal Navy captured that boat
and seized all the code books - and the Enigma.
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| Georg Högel | Georg Högel and "Fast Eddie" Hogan (6979-2005) |
"Fast Eddie" was Skipper of a minesweeper during the war and is
a retired Captain, US Navy and at 92 years of age, never slowed down! Here
is what he thought of his time with us:
"Thank you for your good care during he trip to Germany - saw places that I
had heard
about but never thought I would see. The trip to Hitler's Eagles Nest was
a place I
thought I would never go. The WW II veterans I met will be something to
remember."
To Nürnberg! We were met by
our good friend Michael as we enjoyed a special tour of the museum that he
founded - photo below and with Ed Hargrove (2074-1991) at the Maxim gun. After some hours there, we visited his new tower! This was
a tower in the fortress city, built in the 1300's and will be another part of
Michael's great museum.
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After lunch, we toured the "Rathaushalle" (photo below) where kings, noblemen and knights met in ancient days to formulate treaties -
and where Adolf Hitler met with the city and state officials on many occasions.
This room is NOT open to normal visitors.
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| Michael's "New" Tower | the "Rathaushalle" |
Another visit that was NOT for the usual visitor was
our walk into the depths of the city beneath the pavement a few stories deep
into the bunker and tunnel system that lies beneath this city.
After all these great experiences, we headed for the
"Zum Guldner Stern" restaurant, now a regular dinner place for
us in Nürnberg. This restaurant was already some eighty years old - when
Christopher Columbus departed for the New World! It is in this restaurant
where we have the annual Sharkhunters Sausage Eating Contest. The
Sharkhunters record of 42 sausages was set during our 2003 "Patrol"
by Steve Riha (2937-1993) and although there were many boasts in this 2005 group that the
record would fall, no one was even close to the record of 42 sausages.
These sausages are tiny, but they are extremely rich.
Naturally we were joined by the fine lady (age 90 now)
who was present at the 1936 Party Congress, selling what else - Nürnberger
Sausages! Hermann Göring gave her a ride from Zeppelinfeld in his car at
the end of the day. She is on the right of the photo below.
As every year, our friend Eugen joined us as did
several other veterans. Eugen was a Panzergrenadier with the Hermann
Göring Division. He and his wife are sitting next to Harry Cooper
(1-LIFE-1983) in the left of this photo.
Still in Nürnberg, we picked up Michael with our bus and toured the city where
we passed the Deutsche Hof,
Hitler's favorite hotel - now standing empty. We passed the villa of
Julius Streicher, owner of a major newspaper in the Third Reich. He was a
favorite of the Party until they learned that some of the goods and property
seized by the Party was mysteriously funneled into the private hands of
Streicher! He fell from favor with the Party but even so, after the war, he was tried in absentia
at the "War Crimes Tribunal" and sentenced to death. They
could not find him - but one day, an American soldier was watching a local
artist paint landscapes in the Bavarian Alps and he told the man that he looked
a lot like Julius Streicher. Instead of laughing it off and making a joke
of it, the artist began to sweat and loudly protested that he certainly was not
Streicher. The soldier was immediately suspicious and had the artist
arrested. He was indeed, Julius Streicher and so he was executed.
We drove the bus into the center of the old Party
Congresshall building, right past the sign that states "EINGANG
VERBOTEN" which we know means "Sharkhunters are Welcome
Here!".....but you already knew that. Check the photo below
left.
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Michael took us to the World War I "Flieger
Monument" (photo above right) which also commemorates the fallen aviators of World War
II. The only fact that saved this monument from destruction was that it
was built after World War I and prior to World War II.
This "Patrol" was again very special
in that we were actually IN the "Gold Room", the secret room
beneath the huge stadium at Zeppelinfeld where Hitler would hold receptions
prior to going up the staircase and emerging on the speaker's platform in front
of hundreds of thousands. The ceiling is still inlaid with hundreds of
gold swastikas. Naturally, we walked all over the stadium and each had to
have his/her photo shot on the speaker's platform. We also visited the
shrine (photo below left) where the "Death Ceremony" or
Memorial to the Fallen Soldiers took place.
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From there, we walked a short way to the beautiful
state-of-the-art (in 1939) train station, now dubbed "Hitler's Station"
(photo above right),
where we had a great lunch and fellowship with our friends and hosts.
From the left:
Harry Cooper (1-LIFE-1983)
Ed Hargrove (2074-1991)
Michael Kaiser (6166-2000)
Chris Banda (6733-2003)
Michael made sure that there was no court in session in
Room 600 of the "Palace of Justice" and we went inside for our
visit. This is the room in which the "Nürnberg Tribunals"
otherwise known as the "War Crimes Trials" took place, and we
had it all to ourselves.
Later we drove to a beautiful little village some miles
outside of town where one of the world's greatest aviators is laid to rest, and
we placed flowers on the grave of Hans-Ulrich Rudel, the "Eagle of the
Eastern Front".
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His lifelong motto "No man is beaten until he
admits defeat!" has been an inspiration to many.
We had a pleasant drive through the Bavarian Alps into the Austrian Alps where
castles were frequently dotting the roadside. After a lunch stop on the
Autobahn overlooking the breathtaking scenery of Austria, we continued south to Klagenfurt, the capital of Kärnten.
While we were looking at the stone dragon (photo
below), the emblem of this city, we spotted a
small group of young people holding a protest against the Ulrichsbergfest.
They were young Communists and had no idea that this solemn event was to honor
all who fell in battle, no matter what uniform they wore. Further, many
were barefoot, smoking cigarettes and listening to rap music on their portable
radios while half-heartedly handing out their brochures. It was rather
apparent that these were idealistic, easily-led kids..................you know,
hippie "wannabes" too late to make the "Flower Power"
generation of the 1960's and 1970's so they were here in a sad and pathetic
attempt to live in their parent's generation. Nobody paid much attention
to them and they didn't appear to mind - they were smoking and enjoying the
sunshine and music.
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| According to local legend, this
dragon once was alive. He roamed all over Europe, but he could only eat virgins. When he got to Klagenfurt about 500 years ago, the poor thing just starved to death. Local legend also says that if a virgin walks past the statue, his tail will wag - and it hasn't moved in fifty years! |
Our Austrian HQ Hotel. |
After an hour or two buying souvenirs and enjoying the
sunny afternoon, we boarded our bus and got checked in at our hotel. It
was a 400-year-old Gasthaus in the mountains.
Dinner this evening was in a medieval castle high in
the mountains. As we entered the gates of the castle, we were greeted by
twelve of the Police Choir who then sang for us all through our dinner.
They were fabulous - and they made our President Harry Cooper an honorary member
of the Police Choir. Good thing it's honorary - have you heard Harry sing?
It was a bit past midnight when we tumbled into bed,
but with so many memories already in our heads but with the anticipation of even
more to come the next few days.
We visited the Kotschak/Mauthen
Museum, a splendid museum dedicated to the World War I combat that took place in
that area high in the Alps. This is acknowledged as one of the world's
premier museums on World War I history.
It was time for lunch and we went to an authentic
Austrian Alpine Haus high up in the Alps at the Plöchenpass, site of another
fierce World War I battle, where a toasty fireplace pushed back the chill
brought on by the high altitude. As we have come to expect, the food was
excellent!
We popped into Italy for a short visit to a strange
souvenir shop where they sold wine in black bottles with pictures of either
Adolf Hitler, Benito Mussolini, Großadmiral Dönitz, Großadmiral Raeder,
Hermann Göring or other interesting personnel of the World War II era.
Back to the hotel to clean up, then off to the
highlight of the evening and one of the true highlights of the entire Southern
"Patrol" - we were guests of honor at the annual meeting of
veterans of the Gebirgsjäger (mountain Troops), the Falshirmjäger (paratroops)
and the Waffen SS (the 'Green Berets' of the German Army). there
were between 400 and 500 veterans in the hall, and all were pleased that we
joined them. We met with veterans (photo below) of many of the well-known divisions and
everyone was happy to sigh autographs, with their unit name and number.
Two new friends - H. J.
Genscher and Aüte Peters.
"ULRICHSBERGFEST" - the
main reason for our visit to Austria where hundreds of veterans gather to pay
their respects to all who fell in battle, no matter what uniform they
wore. For the first time ever, the ceremonies and speeches were not held
atop this high mountain but rather in huge tents a few hundred yards down from
the summit.
Fog and a light drizzle caused that change, but the people
were there by the hundreds and the main speaker announced that the Sharkhunters
were in attendance as honored guests. We met many new friends there (photo
below) and when the ceremonies finished, we
enjoyed a light lunch in an old restaurant on the mountain.
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| Bill Napier (2290-C/LIFE-1992) with veterans | from the left, Eduard Kummer (6469-2001) Harry Cooper (1-LIFE-1983) Richard Graswald (7008-2005) |
After our time here, Duane Luthe-Charles (5821-LIFE-1999) wrote:
"What I liked best about the entire "Patrol" was
the ceremony at Ulrichsberg, and being with David Korak (our
translator). Harry, your patrol plan was superb! There were to many
great memories of this
"Patrol" and all equally spectacular, but again I will
say, the Memorial celebration at
Ulrichsberg. I treasure the friendship of the Sharkhunters and the German people alike; the
friends I have made and interaction of these special people is what pulled the entire "patrol"
together under your leadership. The "Patrol" gets
a 5 star rating from me."
And Duane's wife Penny followed with her comments:
"What I liked best - of course the historical sites were very special but I
fell in love with Austria! Meeting the veterans at the
ceremonies and dinner is definitely a high point. My best memory of this "Patrol"
was seeing Austria up close and personal. This is something I will never
forget. It was absolutely wonderful!"
After a short rest at the hotel, we were back at the
evening with the hundreds of veterans as the evening before. There was
singing of folk songs, fellowship and making new friends and there was another
surprise - Die Bürgermeisterin (the Lord Mayor) of this town went onto the stage
and, one by one, called each Sharkhunters Member up with her where she pinned on
a small medal and handed each a beautiful certificate stating that we were
"Friends of the Ulrichsbergfest". It was late again by
the time we reached the hotel, but nobody cared about the late hour - they had
actually MET history!
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| die Burgermeisterin Hilde Gaggl
(2nd left) and our friend Paul Rösch (2nd from right) |
Captain Fred McLaren (5835-1999) and
a veteran of the Wehrmacht. Captain McLaren was Skipper of USS QUEENFISH (SSN 651). |
Captain McLaren had this to say about
his time on this "Patrol":
"I had
a good time and I really liked the München visits, Berchdesgaten, Eagle's Nest, Nürnberg and the Veteran's Reunion.
My best memories are München, the museums and the new friends made on "Patrol"."
Next day was an easy day.....slept late (well, a little bit late) and enjoyed a
pleasant ride through the Alps to the little town of Berchtesgaden where we did
- what else, souvenir shopping! Our bus parked right by the town cemetery
and less than 100 feet from our bus was the grave of Dietrich Eckhardt (photo below). If you aren't familiar with the name,
he is acknowledged to be the founder of the NSDAP.
Soon we were at the beautiful Hotel zum Türken (photo below), owned
by our friend and Member, Ingrid Scharfenberg (3308-A/LIFE-1993). She was waiting in
the door with a huge hug for Harry, then we all took our rooms in this historic
place. Harry showed the different openings into the tunnel and bunker
systems of the former residents like Hitler, Göring, Bormann and Speer.
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| Hotel zum Türken - photo shot from
the end of what was once the driveway to Hitler's home. |
This is all that is left of Adolf
Hitler's mountain home, the Berghof. It was destroyed by the government. |
This hotel is a couple hundred years old and Ingrid's
grandfather bought it about 100 years ago. Her father was the owner when
the war came along and since Hitler had the home immediately next door, Martin
Bormann offered to buy the place from her father. He refused, saying the
hotel was not for sale. Bormann had him put into Dachau "until he
changed his decision" about selling the hotel. It didn't take
long until he sent word to Bormann that he would sell, but Bormann thought that
he should now make the hotel a gift to the Party. With Dachau looming over
his shoulder, who could argue with that logic - and so Bormann took over the
hotel and the personal guard of Hitler from the 1st SS Division, the Leibstandarte
Adolf Hitler, was quartered in this hotel. Ingrid's father quickly died.
After the end of the war,
Ingrid's father was dead and so she and her sister went to the Allies and said
that the hotel really was theirs. The Allies agreed and gave the hotel
back. It is restored to its former beauty - BUT - in the middle 1990's the
US Army gave the area back to the government and the Bavarian Government
has decided that, since the LAH were quartered there, it must be some kind of
evil place and they are trying desperately to get the ownership back from Ingrid so
they can destroy it as they have done with everything else on the
Obersalzberg. No matter that wonderful people like Johannes Brahms stayed
there, it must be evil - in their eyes - and so must be destroyed . We hope
they do not succeed!
Ed Kelley (6799-2005) had this to say about his time on
our "Patrol":
"I had a really great time and I best liked the comradeship, bunker tours,
Hotel zum Türken,
the Eagle's Nest and the bomb shelter museum. My best memory is talking with the
veterans."
Our deluxe motor coach took the group into Salzburg for
the evening where they had dinner and of course - souvenir shopping!
Peacefully awakening to the magnificent Alps outside our windows, we had a great
breakfast cooked by Ingrid herself. There was another short walk to look
at different bunker entrances - then down into the tunnels and bunkers (photo
below) beneath the Hotel zum Türken! We walked in the footsteps of history
- down the tunnels and into the machine gun positions of soldiers long since
dead. It was indeed, a trip back into time!
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| Machine gun position - five stories
underground! |
Viktor Hirschmann (6773-LIFE-2004) at
the memorial high atop Kehlstein Mountain by the 'Eagle's Nest.' |
At mid-day, we boarded the specially-geared bus for the
long and difficult ride to the top of the world, or so it seemed. We
arrived at the entrance to the magnificent brass-lined elevator that took us to
the Eagle's Nest..........the very same elevator that took members of the Third
Reich and their guests there some 65 or more years ago. We looked over the
huge fireplace of Italian marble, a gift of Mussolini, and had our lunch in the
famous place. We walked the grounds and since it was a bit cool, we
enjoyed 'Glühwein', a spiced and heated red wine to ward off the coming of
winter's chill. From this spot, high in the Alps, we could see the massive
Salzburg Castle in the distance.
A short rest at the hotel in the afternoon, then into
town for the evening and - you guessed it.....souvenirs!
Another of the highlights - OKTOBERFEST!
After a visit to the world famous Deutsche Museum, we visited the 'Wies'n' - that is short for the German word meaning the
meadow, and that's where the first many Oktoberfest celebrations were
held. It is now all paved and along the main midway are the tents of the
various Münchener beers - huge tents filled with revelers and of course, those
famous German "Oompha" bands, each trying to outdo the
next. The beer flowed, the food and the fun was almost over the
edge. Some were dancing in the aisles, others drinking - A LOT - of beer
and of course...........buying souvenirs!
Oktoberfest!
A world-wide party
This was a super day of fun and fellowship, but it was
also a sad day because it was the last full day with new-found friends. It
was a rather quiet group that returned to the hotel this evening.
It is a solemn breakfast as we say goodbye to friends we have just met but whom
we will remember forever. One by one they get into cabs for the
five-minute ride to the airport and back to their homes scattered across
America. A handful of people from this "Patrol"
took taxis to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) where they caught the ICE
(Inter City Express) train to Hamburg for that "Patrol" but
that is another story and another webpage.
Some of our travelers headed from the South
'Patrol' to the North 'Patrol'. From the left:
Anthea Houser
Martin (our busdriver)
Dan Houser (6978-2005)
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